Hydraulic and diesel fuel systems operate at very high pressures, often 3,000 psi and above. If a loose connection or a defect in a hose should occur, a fine, high-velocity stream of fluid will result. Even for systems pressurized to as little as 100 psi, this fluid stream can penetrate human skin as if it were a hypodermic needle.
Initially, an accidental fluid injection beneath the skin may only produce a slight stinging sensation. There is a danger that one will ignore this, thinking it will get better with time. Most often it does not. Within a very short time the wound may begin to throb painfully, indicating tissue damage has already begun. Fluid injected directly into a blood vessel can spread rapidly through your circulatory system. The human body has little ability to purge these types of fluids. A fluid injection injury can become very serious or even fatal if not dealt with promptly and properly.
A medical doctor familiar with treatment of this type of injury must surgically remove the fluid within a few hours. The longer the delay in getting professional medical aid, the further the tissue damage can spread. If left untreated, the injury could result in disfigurement or amputation of the affected part.
Putting everything together is fairly straightforward. Simply replace your stock up-tube and down-tube with those supplied by your waste-gate manufacturer, and link the bypass ports on the two with your waste-gate manufacturer. If you use a direct-mount waste-gate (the kind that sandwiches in between your turbo and up-pipe mounting flange), then you're going to have to weld the waste-gate's bypass tube to your down-pipe.
If you're modifying and fabricating your own bypass system, then take a good look at commercial applications available for similar engines. The waste-gate's intake tube should be connected in a tight "V" to the up tube, and and should bend smoothly toward the down-tube. After installing the waste-gate, connect its output tube to the down-tube in as smooth a way as possible. Remember, this is a bypass, and a bypass tube that is as straight as possible with smooth bends will flow the best.
Well there's your problem ... Old engines are like a hard night of drinking. Everything is fine IF you maintain status quo, but the minute you change something (e.g. change the oil, break the seal, etc) all hell breaks loose and you spend a lot more time trying to recover. New motor oil (regardless of its intended purpose) is formulated differently than the bygone days.
When you changed the oil, despite being a good maintenance procedure, the new oil was thinner and full of detergents to help clean out deposits in the engine. Some of those deposits were actually doing you some good by helping to seal the engine in places of typical wear (i.e. rings, valve guides). So, now you have leaks, and some of these might get plugged up again. More likely, you'll just have an old bike that "mark its spot" whenever parked.
Stop wasting you money on new gaskets and other parts for this "starter" bike. Just do enough to keep it safe & road legal, check the oil level religiously, fill it with gas, & ride the crap out of it until it either dies or you trade up.
Are you sure the injection pump timing is correct ? It could be off 180°. One of the beat ways to determine if #1 cylinder is on TDC is to remove the engine valve cover. Then turn the crankshaft until the timing marks line up. Both the intake and exhaust valves must be closed on #1 and you should be able to wiggle them up and down if the backlash is set correctly. hope it works on this situation.
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The smallest backhoe loader in our range is the 1CX. At just 1.4 metres wide, with the ability to turn on its own axis due to its Skid Steer design, it can operate in virtually any environment. It’s fitted with a universal quickhitch and full side-shift capability too.
The 2CX, one of our smallest JCB backhoe, with four-wheel steer for excellent manoeuverability and our extradig dipper for superb backhoe performance. ROPS/FOPS canopies or cabs can improve safety and comfort, and a wide array of attachments makes the 2CX extremely versatile.
I always prefer eBay for any kind of heavy machinery because this is full free shipping for me. Read More...
Might be a mechanical problem. I'm assuming your dash gauge shows good pressure in reverse too. If it were mine, this is the first thing I would check. There is a gear, that can come off the shaft, that is located directly underneath the shuttle assembly. Remove some floorboards to access the shuttle cover, located directly in front of the gearshift cover. Clean the area, remove the shuttle dipstick and the 4 bolts(one is a recessed socket head cap screw). Inside you will see your shuttle assembly, note if it has the band around the clutch drums, exactly the same unit as in the picture, if it has then it's a Rockwell.
Look under the rear gear, there should be a smaller gear engaged to it. It will be submerged in oil, if you can't see, feel for it. If that doesn't work you may have to drain the oil in the rear shuttle compartment, it's the plug with the 1" head that is located directly underneath. My picture of the counter shaft does not show the gear in question. Read More...
I doubt you have an actual relay problem but rather your engine may have 'froze' and cycling the key off and then back to just reset it. Also recheck 4 things always with the start up, The battery, loose wire, starter or alternator. Read More...
You might be able to unbolt the motor mounts and using a engine host raise the engine high enough to remove the pan without actually pulling the engine. Watch out for the vacume tree on the back of the intake main fold; don't want to break anything.... Read More...
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